For a short time, we are living a little bit like the nomads of Mongolia, 300 miles west of Ulaanbaatar in the area around Bulgan. We are a 90 minute drive from anything you could call a road. At our base camp, Lapis Sky, we live in tents called gers. We ride the descendants of horses that carried the Mongolians who, 900 years ago, conquered most of the known world. We watch the thrilling spectacle of 40 children racing “thunderhooves” across the steppes. We sip vodka from the same small cup and sample “airag,” the yogurty fermented mare’s milk the Mongolian nomads prize. Continue reading
Author: klmalcolm2014
Mongolia Is A Country
I am a little embarrassed to say that I didn’t know Mongolia was a country until I decided to visit. I guess I assumed it was a region that was part of China and part of Russia. But Mongolia is a democracy with a president and – since the Soviets pulled out in 1991 – it has a mixed economy. It is unlike any place I have ever visited. Continue reading
Russia in the 21st Century: You Say You Want A Revolution. Nyet
I have just arrived in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, where the national government doesn’t care what one of the little people says about Russia to the folks back home. And if anyone actually cared, I don’t have much to say that would get me In Trouble. The American media is saying it way better than I could. But you never know. Steven Colbert just left Moscow so there could be a heightened sense of indignation about sardonic Americans. Continue reading
The Expected and the Unexpected in Moscow
White Nights, Imperial Splendor and Veggie Burgers in St. Petersburg
I am spending the week in beautiful St. Petersburg, Russia. It is a city designed by and for royalty, full of large palaces, giant churches, gold spires, and grand boulevards. The feeling of the historic center is formal and aristocratic, and the city seems all about the buildings. No graffiti or garbage or village dogs. Continue reading
The Game of Bridge: Cool, Complex, Savage
When someone asks me what I do for fun, I usually don’t mention that I play bridge. I mention travel and writing, horseback riding and hiking, hanging with friends and family. If I told them I played bridge, they might think that I am old and frumpy, which I kind of am, and that I am not very cool. Continue reading
Matisse Takes Boston
Henri Matisse is one of the 20th century’s most important artists. Although his art is intelligent and innovative, it portrays a world that is full of sunshine and kindness, dancing and music. People are comfortable with themselves and each other. His work is playful, colorful and quietly emotional. Continue reading
Nafplio, the Darling of the Peloponnese
The little town of Nafplio was the first capital of Greece after the Ottoman Turks got the boot in 1822. I can’t help but wonder how different Nafplio would be if the capital hadn’t been moved to Athens. It is just so adorable. And, well, Athens is not.


