Most of us associate Dubai with grand opulence, and there’s that! But there is more to Dubai than Gucci and crazy architecture. San Miguel friend and co-conspirator, Susan, and I arrived in Dubai two nights ago. Why Dubai? I have wanted to visit the Arabian Peninsula, called “West Asia,” because it’s an important piece of the global human puzzle and the world’s oil-based political economy. Susan said, “not on my to-do list but that sounds fascinating, let’s go!”.
Dubai is the largest city in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), which, like all oil-rich countries on the Arabian Peninsula, seems to have more money than it knows what to do with. Only about 15% of the population is Emerati — descended from Bedouin tribes — and that 15% is well-heeled, thanks to the country’s oil revenues. Almost everybody else is from India, Pakistan, African countries, or the Philippines, working in jobs the Emerati don’t want to do for modest wages. So the city is very diverse and mostly not glamorous. This was the first surprise. The second was washing down my first meal with a gin and tonic in a bar that played Cindi Lauper and Talking Heads. And, no, women here are not required to wear burqas or anything else in particular. Some Muslim women wear some kind of traditional Muslim dress, but we also see shorts and tank tops.
Our first breakfast was a typical and very delicious Arab variety plate of foul (a thick bean stew), hummus, cheeses and breads. The coffee is delicious and the city has cuisine from all over the world.
Yesterday, we joined a walking tour (5 miles in 100 degree heat) with Hesham who introduced himself by saying, “If you were hoping your guide would be Emerati, they don’t do this kind of work.” Hesham was born in UAE, but he’s Egyptian so he’s not entitled to the oil goodies.
Still, Hesham obviously loves his city. We walked through the historic neighborhoods of Dubai, while Hesham cleared up some questions I’ve had. For example, he explained why UAE is not controlled or colonized by any of the usual suspects. At one time it was, but the English left, believing the region’s oil reserves were limited. A few years later, it was determined that they were practically unlimited, but by then it was too late for England.
Hesham also talked a little about gender issues in Islam. For example, men here wear white for purity and women wear black for dignity (maybe another way of saying black covers up whatever is underneath). Although we love Hesham, we weren’t quite satisfied with his explanation of why Muslim men can have 4 wives but Muslim women can’t have four husbands. Something about men need to know whose babies those are.
This morning, I went to a presentation about Islam at the Jumeirah Mosque. Our host explained the Five Pillars of Islam: the commitment to one god, fasting, prayer, charity, and Haj (pilgrimage). She explained some of what is behind these principles. For example, one of the reasons fasting is important in Islam is to develop compassion for people who don’t have enough to eat. I love this.
Last night, we went to see the fountain show at the base of the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building. It was very Las Vegas!
One of the highlights of our visit here was meeting up with Shaw, who, with her partner Tarek, owns an elegant art-filled Mexican restaurant in Dubai called Lila. Shaw’s mom is a friend of Susan’s in San Miguel, and one of Shaw’s employees is the son of Mario who manages my San Miguel house when I’m out of town. SUCH a small world. We ate some amazing enchiladas at Lila and left Shaw a bag of Mexican lucha libre masks that she’ll sell in her restaurant.
Shaw loves Dubai and says it’s easy to be an entrepreneur here. The UAE government encourages foreigners to open small businesses. Immigrant workers are entitled to free health care and other work benefits, like a month’s paid vacation. We also learned that, although some of the 7 emirates (states) in the UAE have a lot of oil wealth, Dubai’s economy is fueled mostly by real estate and international investment banking. And now, tamales and guacamole.
Camino Milagro 
Thanks for sharing! I enjoyed reading about Susan and your adventures!
Gracias Habiba! Hold down the fort! xoxox
This is one of the most interesting and informative of your blog posts Kim. I learned things I didn’t know and “unlearned” some misconceptions I had. Thanks! Sounds like a great start to your trip.
Gracias Habibi!
Helpful insights into a place I thought I’d never visit. It sounds like the social and economic mix would make an interesting society, after a couple of decades. Thanks for your lovely photos, too Kim!
Hi Ev, no evidence of martial arts here! Seems everything is about shopping and eating.!
Wow. Interesting cultural views of an exotic society. Thanks so much, Kim. What I wanna know is how come you can find great Mexican cuisine in the Gulf States, when I cannot for love or money here in France??? 😉
Sounds like you have a project! A cafe that specializes in the croque senor!
Jajajajaja…. Or perhaps cordón-azul? 😉
A fascinating and informative post, Kim. It’s always a pleasure to get your insights when visiting different cultures 🙂 Look forward to reading more about your latest adventure.
Thank you Rosaliene!
Thanks Kim! This was such an interesting post about an area of the world. I know nothing about. Enjoy your trip! And great you could find Mexican food there! Xo Janet
Hi Janet, yes, I’m writing again!. Things are never as they seem.
Kim, thanks so much for a little window into the UAE and Dubai! xxoo Karen
Miss you habiba
An excellent tour. I thank you.
Thanks so much — I’m glad to be back on the road
Thank you, Kim. I loved your photos and information—wonderful to know. Walking in 100 degree heat! I’m impressed.
Greetings from London where it is currently—no surprise—raining.
Sharon
I hope you are loving London and enjoying the conference. And BTW, the heat here is surprisingly humid. We’re on the coast so I guess I shouldn’t be surprised.
Hola Kim, gracias por compartir conmigo tu blog. ¡Qué interesante! Te seguiré leyendo. Abrazos. Armida.
Gracias Armida! Nos vemos en noviembre.
Gracias Habibi may be the ultimate in multicultural sayings! Loved this post, Kim! And can’t wait to read more as you venture further into the unknown. Have a great trip!
Happy to be on the road again! Hope your trip has been good so far!
Beautiful photos. Thanks for the journey. That breakfast is mouth watering. The wall art behind you in the last photo reminds me of a graphic novel I read and reviewed a while back called A Game for Swallows—takes place in Lebannon.
Thank you Carol!
L-O-V-E your reporting! It is a NEW world! Especially as evidenced by Shaw’s success in Dubai. Fascinating!
Thank you Vicki and, yes, our conversation with Shaw was enlightening! We hope to see her when we return to UAE at the end of the month.
I’m stopping in Dubai on my way to Baku for a few days… nice to see it’s not all just glitz and glamour!
There are some interesting neighborhoods of different immigrant groups, like Pakistanis and Indians. Check them out!
Love this perspective! Dubai truly has so many layers beyond the luxury and skyscrapers. Exploring with My UAE Tours helped me see both the cultural side and the modern highlights, making the experience much richer than I expected.
Thanks for your comments! I will check out My UAE Tours if and when I return. 🙂