The first time I visited Oaxaca almost 30 years ago, a friend asked me why I would choose Oaxaca for a vacation because “it’s the Fresno of Mexico.” I’m Armenian so it wasn’t a good choice of insult but the cities are similar in a few ways. Both have a lot of poor people and strong connections to the ethnically diverse rural communities outside their city centers. But only one has world-class colonial architecture, a prominent arts community, and a spirit of political activism. Also a lot of mole and mezcal.
Whatever Oaxaca was 30 years ago, I discovered this week that it has certainly changed from something that felt modest to a place where small-time international investors are expecting something big. The old part of the city has become a fascinating mix of old and new — designer hotels next to unassuming tiendas, run down cantinas alongside bars reworked to attract affluent young Mexicans and tourists. Souvenir shops sell pottery, embroidered blouses, and “alebrijes,” the brightly painted, wood carved animals that have made their way to expensive American gift shops.
There is a lot of art here — most of it carrying social and spiritual messages — and it seems to serve every demographic. In one gallery, I saw a Rufino Tamayo print for $12,000 (another reminder that if you have to ask, you can’t afford it.). In another, a young proprietor showed me a $2 card and explained the political significance of its subject to the poorest people in his community. Skulls and references to Oaxacan history are dominant themes.
In spite of the wealth and global attention the city has attracted, its politics are loud and local. All through the center of the city, there is evidence of protests, consciousness-raising and advocacy for civil rights on behalf of the poor and working people, many belonging to 16 indigenous groups, mostly Zapotec and Mixtec. Most of today’s activism has evolved from a popular movement led by the teacher’s union in 2006, which was emboldened by the federal government’s violent response.
Oaxaca is a wonderful mix of old and new, with so much to enjoy and also a kind of restlessness that says “go ahead and enjoy but don’t forget what is bigger and deeper.” This is one place that ain’t gonna pay for that fucking wall.
I’ve been wondering what you’re up to buy now!
Home next week but I am returning to Mexico in October — love it here
Thanks for being my eyes and ears on your return to Oaxaca. The arts scene appears to be more vibrant than ever! Do folks still stroll around the zocalo evenings?
Do you plan to visit the ruins at Monte Alban or Mitla?
Any horseback riding in store for you?
Once again your photos are stunning.
So many preguntas! Yes, the zocalo is busy all the time it seems. I am going to Mitla and Monte Alban. I hope to ride next week. 🙂
Beautiful, and especially your final line, powerful!
It feels very different from San Miguel, which is more conservative culturally and politically. San Miguel is heart and Oaxaca is spirit.
Are those kangaroos on her bodice? I love it!
Yes — I don’t get it! But she was lovely.
Fascinating, Kim! I like your photos and insights. Many years ago I saw “la noche de los rábanos” in the zócalo, and hope you can see it, too, if you’re there in December!
Hi Wendy, you have been so many places, sometimes I think I am following your path! I won’t be here in December but I will be in San Miguel for Day of the Dead, which I really look forward to. I love the movie “Coco”!!
Día de los muertos is phenomenal. I was lucky one year to go to Pátzcuaro to see it. I look forward to hearing from you about it in 2018! Buen viaje…