First, I apologize for the title, which is actually relevant to my posting — because I am in Amman — and refers to one of my Mom’s favorite Rosemary Clooney songs. And then I was empowered when I remembered Gabe’s geographically inspired phrase, “yer babuena.”
Anyway, yesterday morning, I headed off to the Citadel while it was still cool. The Citadel is Amman’s highest point and the site of the ruins of a Roman forum and an ancient Muslim community. I wanted the exercise and figured I could find it walking because it is pretty hard to miss. But at one point on my way up the hill, I couldn’t see the site so I asked a friendly pack of children to point me in the right direction. One of them politely introduced herself, led me to a dirt path behind some houses and ran back down the hill to catch her school bus. Then I toured the site, which was beautiful with spectacular views of the city.
You probably can’t tell that is me in the middle because I am wearing my new blouse from the mall in Paphos.
Islamic Palace at the Citadel.
Feeling inspired by the ruins and athletically accomplished, I started back down the hill and came upon the official entry gate — which had a ticket booth. I had sneaked in! That was just so subversive of me and I was kind of excited about it. So I bought a ticket for $2.80 and turned around to leave, which didn’t escape the notice of the guards who told me I was going the wrong way. When I explained what had happened (without ratting out the children), the guards were very pleased with my honesty and I made a point of telling them that I am an American.
On the way down the hill, I saw this great wall art, which goes most of the length of an entire block and is so happy.
After a leisurely afternoon at Hawa Guest House, I headed out for dinner with Servas host, Zafira Labadi. Servas is an international nonprofit that I think of as the first couch surfing organization but with a pacifist philosophy and an active network of members. Zafira lives with her cat, “Kitty” — which would be “kutita” in Arabic :). She made a delicious vegan spanokopita with salad and I brought fresh figs for desert. Zafira is a life coach and her expertise is in the science of happiness. She works with individuals and also hosts a workshop a couple of times a month where women get together to watch an inspirational film and talk about it. Very cool!
I had a great time getting to know Zafira and we are hoping to get together again when I return to Amman from Petra.
Today is Friday, which is the Muslims’ day of reflection and special prayer, called Jumu’ah. I was near the main mosque when the prayer was being broadcast over loud speakers and hundreds of men in the main street bowed facing south toward Mecca. It was very moving.
Camino Milagro 
Love the two quotes and your story! It’s these little moments that really make a trip more than just travelling! By the way, I did sign up for the Happiness class at UC Berkeley. I have been too busy to really participate, but try to read the materials when I can.
I think this is maybe the best posting to date on your blog. It really made me feel like I was there. Well, almost.
You always seem to connect with local people, and in my experience that is the best part of traveling. I also really like your photos!
Your trip seems to really be taking off Kimmie, and I am very happy for you.
Maybe Zafira and I are soul sisters with our matching cats named “Kitty.” I also signed up for the online Happiness course, and unfortunately I haven’t had time to keep up with the homework – Jeff said that it would be sad for me to fail Happiness. I might need to take a Kim-inspired adventure to save me…
Meet me some where! And I couldn’t finish the happiness course either — I was flunking because I couldn’t figure out what the homework was and when I f finished it, how to report it! But we are not failing happiness — we are just doing independent study!