For the past week, I’ve been in Belgrade, the capital of Serbia. The city has great museums, a million trees, parks, walkable neighborhoods, and gorgeous old churches. This part of the Balkan Peninsula also has an almost unimaginably complicated political history. Until 2003, Serbia was Yugoslavia, which is now six independent states — Serbia, Slovenia, Croatia, North Macedonia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Montenegro. Depending on your politics, Kosovo is either an independent nation, or part of Serbia (most of the world says it’s part of Serbia). This is not the most complicated part of the history of this part of the Balkans.
Continue readingBelgrade’s Art Surprises
I’m in Belgrade, Serbia, this week and I love it. But instead of telling you more about Serbia right now, I’m going to tell you about some of the art in Belgrade and wait on the other stuff. I have my reasons. Anyway, one of the things I love about Belgrade is how art is seems to be quietly everywhere. On my first day in the city, I knew I was going to have a good art adventure because the first thing I saw leaving my hotel was a 4 year old who stood enraptured by a talented singer in the plaza. The rest of the art I saw in Belgrade was partly planned, but the best of it was, like the little girl and the singer, by chance.
Continue readingWherefore Art Thou Romania
In my travels, I find large and small wonders almost everywhere. But, um, Romania isn’t doing it for me, although I guess it should. The capital, Bucharest, is full of beautiful historic buildings. Its Old Town is gorgeous and lively, with a lot of young people hanging out at cafes and bars. And the Romanian countryside is spectacular, with forests and mountains and charming villages. But….
Continue readingTransnistria, Another Unexpected Discovery
Yesterday, I visited Transnistria, a country in the middle of Moldova. At least, it acts like a country. It has a border patrol, a military, a government bureaucracy, and currency. It calls itself a country. And actually, it no longer calls itself “Transnistria” because its leader directed residents to use its Russian name, “Pridnistrovie.” This is one of the most complicated cases of national identity I’ve ever heard of, or actually never heard of.
Continue readingDiscovering the Unexpected in Moldova
I am in the capital of Moldova, which I bet most people don’t know is Chisinau. I didn’t. Moldova is one of the least touristed places in Europe (after Liechtenstein it seems). Moldova wants you to visit. It will stamp your passport without even looking to see whether your face matches your passport photo. Moldova’s marketing one-liner is “Discover the Unexpected,” and I’ve already definitely discovered some unexpected.
Continue readingTbilisi, Party Girl
I’m only a tourist here but, coming from dignified Baku, I get the feeling Tbilisi is quite a hedonist. This city stays up late, drinks a lot, eats a lot, and smokes a lot. Georgians are mostly Eastern Orthodox, but the churches are sharing a fair amount of real estate with bars, shisha parlors, spas, and casinos.
Continue readingBaku, Beauty Queen
Baku is the capital of Azerbaijan, and wow, the city has been a huge surprise to me. It is surely one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited. It is a combination of Paris (but cleaner) and Dubai (but with more personality). Elegant old neighborhoods border modern architectural wonders. It has two beautiful coast lines on the Caspian Sea, and it’s probably among the most walkable large cities in the world.
Continue readingWalking to Pakistan
I walked to Pakistan this week. Because Pakistan and India have an antagonistic relationship, you can’t fly or drive between the two countries. But you can walk, and the only place to do that is at Wagah Border, about 10 miles from Lahore, Pakistan.
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