Pushkar is a small town in Rajasthan, the region that many Americans most associate with India — a desert with camels, palaces, forts, and elephants. I happened to be in the area during the time of the Pushkar’s annual Camel Fair. I had to go!

It’s important to know that Pushkar is a Hindu pilgrimage place because it’s home to the world’s only Brahma temple. This is significant considering that Brahma is the god of creation and Hindus have built about 2 million temples, each associated with a Hindu god. For example, there are probably hundreds of thousands of Vishnu temples. The reason Brahma gets only one temple is unclear. He was discredited after he betrayed his wife. He was shamed for being too fresh with his daughter. He lied to Vishnu in a competition. Whatever it was, Shiva — a more powerful god — cursed Brahma so that he could not be worshipped anywhere except Pushkar. No matter — the Brahma temple is so popular with Indians, it is packed day and night.

The Camel Fair turned out to be only a little interesting. The actual camel trading had already taken place by the time I arrived and so the fair was mostly people selling cheap consumer goods and hawking camel rides. And um, all night chanting over loud speakers outside my hotel. But there were also lots of gorgeous Rajasthani horses for sale at prices I could afford, if only I lived in India (because it is illegal to export them — there are only about 1,000 left in the world). The breed is called “Marwari” and it’s known for the horses’ inward turning ears.

With or without the actual camel fair, I loved Pushkar. Lots of women in brightly colored saris.

And 500 temples of all shapes and sizes.

And people performing small miracles in the streets.

And hippie cafes with vegan food.

And a special dessert called “Hello to the Queen” made of caramelized bananas rolled in cookie crumbs and topped with ice cream, pomegranate seeds, nuts, and chocolate sauce.

And my favorite — the nightly “aarti” ritual with fire dancing and chanting on the ghats along the lakeshore.

Pushkar is another one of the world’s quiet treasures (although not so quiet during the all-night chanting).