Khajuraho Oh Wow

Hindus believe that spiritual growth comes from a synchronization of the mind, heart, soul and body. Because Hindus believe the physical body and its functions aren’t separate from the other aspects of our being, it’s not surprising that there is a temple complex in India with carvings that are very explicitly sexual. Khajuraho in Central India is dozens of sandstone temples built in the 9th, 10th, and 11th centuries The temple walls depict scenes from the Kama Sutra, an ancient Hindu manual of sexual pleasure, desire, and love.

The carvings are incredibly intricate and are mostly equal opportunity — women are shown as very much enjoying themselves (the animals might not be, though).

The town of Khajuraho is also full of personality, although less focused one thing. It’s small — about 25,000 residents — and situated in the middle of rich farmland. It’s quiet with lots of trees, great vegetarian food, and friendly people.

This street food chef makes the most incredible potato curry while you watch, for about 30 cents.
This woman is selling tika powder, which is put on the “third eye” of the forehead to show devotion and a connection to the divine.
This small parade just outside of town was a celebration of a recent birth.

The people of Khajuraho are cool enough, but the cows kind of run things — they are everywhere, nudging you for a banana, rifling through garbage bins at produce stands, and sleeping in the middle of every road. In India, the cow is sacred and the ones in Khajuraho seem to know their place.

Holy cow enjoying snacks

The town has a wonderful small museum of tribal art with some surprising exhibits and murals. On Sundays, the museum hosts performances of traditional dances.

Traditional art work on the wall of a typical tribal house.
One local tribe celebrates something (not sure what) every year by creating giant mounds of clay animals. This one is in Khajuraho’s tribal arts museum.

I also visited a tiny village about five miles from Khajuraho that’s hoping to attract tourists. When I arrived, a few women were performing a beautiful Indian dance in the street. Otherwise, the town didn’t have much to offer the average tourist. The village is very poor. Children played cricket with rocks and the only food vendor in town sells junk food. So the tuk tuk driver took us back to town where we bought lots of cricket balls and fruit. When we returned, the kids were waiting for us.

A really good place to watch the dancers in the village.

There are a million reasons to visit India, and if you go, you should visit Khajuraho. The souvenir vendors will drive you crazy, but you will be richly rewarded in Hindu heaven.

In one of the smaller temples, a Hindu priest performs aarti, an evening prayer ritual with lots of chanting, bells, banging, flowers and fire. The monolith is carved of stone and represents the god Shiva.

16 comments

  1. The statuary is amazing and beautiful. The colors you capture are so vibrant. And the people seem friendly and welcoming.

    What a trip you’ve been on Kim… for years!

  2. It all looks amazing, Kim. I’m reading the wonderful novel Sonny and Sonia (or is it Sonia and Sunny?) and feel completely immersed in India. Safe travels!

    Wendy

Leave a reply to klmalcolm2014 Cancel reply