Tbilisi, Party Girl

I’m only a tourist here but, coming from dignified Baku, I get the feeling Tbilisi is quite a hedonist. This city stays up late, drinks a lot, eats a lot, and smokes a lot. Georgians are mostly Eastern Orthodox, but the churches are sharing a fair amount of real estate with bars, shisha parlors, spas, and casinos.

Probably a disco in the basement.

Most of this stuff interests the 20-somethings more than me, but there is music and I do appreciate Georgian wine. It’s famous and it’s everywhere here. I love the red wine made from a grape called saperavi. It’s very rich with a lot of bouquet. Georgians are especially proud of an orange wine they have been making for 8,000 years. It gets its color from the skins that are processed with white grapes.

The feeling is so casual here, it’s easy to forget Tbilisi’s culture is more than hot air balloons and fire works and sky ropes. I managed to get to a couple of art museums, which are good although a little indiscriminate. I want to ask someone why did you put 50 paintings in each of eight rooms and why do you love them? And why do you have only two of Sergey Parajanov’s paintings when the Armenians have dozens? Parajanov was born and raised in Georgia! (For more about Parajanov, you can read this post I wrote from Armenia https://kimmie53.com/2016/05/27/you-go-to-my-head-sergey-parajanov/#more-6460)

Not Parajanov’s best effort.

They don’t have to explain why they love Niko Pirosmani, though.

Photo by Wikimedia Commons

Speaking of giraffes, a lot of unhomed dogs here are also enjoying the good life. In the historic center, there are hundreds of them lying in front of cafes and liquor stores. They have ear tags to indicate that they’re spayed and vaccinated. They’re friendly and well fed. One near my hotel barks at 6am every morning, apparently thinking he’s a rooster.

The historic old town is partly elegant and partly funky.

Notice the Pirosmani giraffe on the wall

The messages are frequently political.

And the sulfur baths are exquisite. Tbilisi has about a dozen of them in brick dome structures that sit on top of hot springs. You get a private room and the bath is very hot, and a lady will come and scrub you down, and you think you are so relaxed you will never walk again, not even to the art museums. But then you remember the wine…

20 comments

  1. love all your posts Kim. Even though I won’t be traveling personally to all your exotic places at least I am in your back pocket trailing along. XX Hope

  2. Great story, as usual, Kim. If you get the chance while still in Georgia, do not miss the opportunity to visit the Stalin Museum in Gori (40 miles east of Tbilisi). It is utterly surreal, including the lifesize toy train that the young Dukashvili played with as a child… (!) We got the tour from a Soviet-style matron/automaton, who did not brook any impertinent questions, like “Why are there no photos of Comrade Trotsky on the walls here…?” 😉

  3. Who woulda’ thunk that Tblisi (and Baku) held such delights???

    Kim!

    (Loved these pics! ‘Specially the one with the car carrying a thingamagig on its roof in front of the Pirosmani giraffe on the wall.)

  4. What a lovely little blog. Wish there’s more about the city! Also just landed on your page, what a treat!

  5. We LOVE Georgian food. There were three Georgian restaurants in DC when we lived there and they got us hooked. The influence of the Silk Road is fascinating. Eat everything!

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