Baku is the capital of Azerbaijan, and wow, the city has been a huge surprise to me. It is surely one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited. It is a combination of Paris (but cleaner) and Dubai (but with more personality). Elegant old neighborhoods border modern architectural wonders. It has two beautiful coast lines on the Caspian Sea, and it’s probably among the most walkable large cities in the world.
For context, Azerbaijan is in the Caucasus along with Georgia and Armenia. All three countries declared independence from the Soviet Union in 1991 and are, to some extent, considered democracies. Unlike its Christian neighbors, Azerbaijan is majority Muslim but also very secular. Mosques are few and far between (the Soviets destroyed most of them) and I didn’t sense any community commitment to the rituals of Ramadan.
For visitors — of which there seems to be few — Baku has lots to offer. People are friendly and hospitable. Restaurants and hotels are inexpensive and excellent. There is a funicular to the top of a mountain and boat rides along the city’s coastline. As you can guess, the shopping is very high end (I need to replace my frayed suit case and found one for $1,000 that I didn’t buy)
Tourists are especially encouraged to travel to the outskirts of Baku to see two geological anomalies called “mud volcanoes” and a “fire mountain.” I saw them. They are a “B” attraction, but they are important indicators of what drives the national economy and all that beauty in Baku — oil and gas. Azerbaijan is loaded with it and seems to have put oil and gas revenues to good use.
There are also many museums. The National Museum and the Carpet Museum have some interesting pieces (although I would say not curated to connect the nation’s art to its history and modern culture).
Azerbaijan, however, has problems. According to online resources, its government is authoritarian and corrupt. Its president was supposedly elected, but his family has been in control since 1969. To an outsider, the people of Baku seem relaxed and financially comfortable, but the government is known for civil rights abuses. Of special interest to me is the longstanding dispute Azerbaijan has had with Armenia over a region called Nagorno-Karabakh (Armenians call it Artsakh). The dispute has resulted in wars and skirmishes for dozens of years and finally, in October 2023, culminated with the Azerbaijan military expelling nearly all 100,000 Armenian residents. While the country of Armenia’s claim to the land might have been tenuous, the Armenians who were expelled owned the property and businesses they were forced to leave behind. Israel (and by proxy, the US) has provided Azerbaijan the weapons for these battles over Nagorno-Karabakh, and the world has been all but silent about this blatant case of ethnic cleansing. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2024/apr/30/armenia-turns-towards-west-in-search-of-allies-amid-azerbaijan-tensions
Someone once said, “Travel to the places you are told are the places of your enemies. That is waging peace.” I’m half Armenian and my grandfather lost his entire family in the Armenian Holocaust, so I might consider Azerbaijan the place of my enemy. But I don’t want that prejudice in my life. I would never make excuses for a government that displaces and steals the property of 100,000 innocent people, but I also wouldn’t blame the millions of Azerbaijanis who are living in the shadow of that government. As usual, the problem is not humanity, but a handful of heartless leaders.
I’m in Tbilisi, Georgia.
Camino Milagro 
Kim, did you climb to the top of the Maiden Tower? Stroll along the boardwalk on the Caspian Sea? Purchase a kilim in one of the carpet bazaars? Taste that marvellous Azerbaijani food? Color me jealous…. 😉
All of that except climbing to the top of the tower. I actually didn’t know that was an option!
Since I’ll likely never travel to Azerbaijan, it’s a delight to read your impressions. Yes traveling to the places of our supposed “enemies” has served me well by visiting Nicaragua during the time of the Sandinistas, El Salvador during the civil war (doing solidarity work) and Cuba twice! Blessings on you.
“You love the thunder” xoxo
Interesting, we’ll be in Baku in about 6 weeks, and then to Georgia. How’s the climate right now in Georgia? Maggie
Whether was cool but evolving to wonderful. I’m In Tbilisi, where it’s perfect.
Sorry, I meant political. Have the protests caused any problems?
As for the politics, I didn’t notice anything — I was in the historic center most of the time, oblivious!
Well, this is certainly a most surprising discovery of your current journey!
I had imagined Baku to resemble Pittsburg during the height of the coal/steel economy of the late 19th and first half of the 20th century because of its oil industry. It played a prominent role in the Second World War because of these oil resources. Not a single time in any of the books I have read about this ever made the merest mention of its beauty- only the density of its extraction and refinery industries.
And so your narrative and pictures put a lie onto my incorrect preconceptions. Hurray!
Sometimes only travel can open ones eyes… or in this case a wonderful correspondentcefrom a traveler. Thanks!
Thanks Vic — yes, I had imagined a rather dreary post-Soviet community.
Interesting, as always, Kim.
Fascinating as always. This is quite the extended trip you’re on. Hope you’ve bumped into some launderettes along the way. Always the hardest part of travel, for me. You don’ t want to over pack, but you can only wear the same things for so long. Especially if you’re in a warm climate.
In Indonesia, Philippines, Nepal and India, having a laundry wash and fold an entire load is about $2. In Baku, it’s $50 for a pair of jeans and two shirts!
Tourists are especially encouraged to travel to the outskirts of Baku to see two geological anomalies called “mud volcanoes” and a “fire mountain.” I saw them. They are a “B” attraction, but they are important indicators of what drives the national economy and all that beauty in Baku — oil and gas. Azerbaijan is loaded with it and seems to have put oil and gas revenues to good use.
From its futuristic skyline and ancient Old City to its unique blend of Soviet and Azerbaijani culture, the capital of Azerbaijan looks quite intriguing. I have to put Baku on my travel wish list. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Yes, it was a surprise! Tbilisi is too, where I am right now. It’s like the little sister that likes a good time!