The Other Kind of Riches in Bukhara and Khiva

After a few days in Samarkand, we left for Bukhara. Like Samarkand, Bukhara is full of ancient Arabic architecture and was an important stop on the Silk Road. Today, it’s also an important cultural center, which !ding ding ding! means traditional folk art. Thanks to our delightful tour guide, Zafar, we’ve seen a lot of it and some is surprising

On our 200 mile bus ride to Bukhara from Samarkand, we first visited Konigil Meros Paper Factory, where we saw a demonstration of paper-making. The paper is made of mulberry bark using ancient techniques. Some of the paper creations at the workshop are small works of art. Like these.

About an hour down the road, we visited a workshop in the countryside where the family matriarch teaches young women the art of traditional embroidery, called “suzani.” And she sells what they make, of course, to people like us.

At a ceramics workshop near Bukhara, we saw handmade pottery with unusual designs and glazes.

Photo by Samarkand Tour

Bread is also an art in Uzbekistan, so the ceramics workshop uses one of the kilns for breadmaking, and we got delicious hot samples.

I’m not sure it’s really a kiln, maybe just a bread oven.

Some of the bread here is decorated with these things, which I think we called “bread stamps.” They would also be good for pottery!

Speaking of creative bread things, this woman used an old baby buggy as a way of transporting and displaying her bread.

We went to a blacksmith’s shop where we found beautiful scissors.

On our last night in Bukhara, we saw a fashion show where very tall Uzbek women modeled updated versions of traditional dresses. They were quite dramatic, and I think Carol and Susan would have taken some of them home if they’d had room in their suitcases.

On Wednesday, we drove 300 miles along the Silk Road to Khiva. We left Old Town in Bukhara (although not on a bike), and traveled through flat desert and agricultural lands.

Dry cotton fields
Even the roadside bathrooms are creative.

In Khiva, we’re staying in a large complex of ancient buildings called Itchan Kala, which is a very loved UNESCO World Heritage Site. The architecture is similar to the best of what we have seen in other Uzbekistan cities, but of course each building and road and minaret has its own stories. Our hotel was once a madrassah and at times a prison.

The Orient Star Hotel in Itchan Kala, Khiva

In Khiva, we found more treasures, including some very lovely ceramics.

Our wonderful Intrepid tour guide, Zafar, who speaks six languages plus the language of the heart.

We head back to Tashkent today to say goodbye to each other and a country that feels a little bit like family now. Thank you, Uzbekistan. xoxoxo

10 comments

  1. What interesting excursions!

    The fabrics and the pottery are so beautiful and right up your alley! The buildings look wondrous. And the bread looks divine (how did it taste?).

    But, the scissors grabbed my attention most of all because of how they meld utility and art into such a perfect form. What a passion for detail and love of nature!

    Sounds like a lotta’ fun and a trip with some interesting discoveries with Zafar- who sounds delightful – as your guide and translator.

  2. I don’t know how you are not hauling back a containerload of crafts and art work! They all look amazing. Would love to know more about the food along your travels. I have been fascinating by the Silk Road’s impact since I first tried Georgian food.

  3. I don’t know how you are not hauling back a containerload of crafts and art work! They all look amazing. Would love to know more about the food along your travels. I have been fascinating by the Silk Road’s impact since I first tried Georgian food.

    1. Hauling back a few things….lol.

      The food has been ok for me as a vegetarian. It’s a meat heavy diet, especially grilled kebabs. But there’s also lots of fresh wonderful vegetables and fruits. A lot of dill, garlic, stews, stuffed pasta (“manty”), and rice. There is definitely not the variety we are used to, even in Mexico. You pretty much know what will be on the menu in every restaurant.

  4. I’m loving this journey I’m on with the three of you. The photographs and the narrative are fascinating.

    Sharon

  5. Ahhh how amazing is Uzbekistan! It seems I was there a month or so before you. Being a solo traveller I was lucky enough to help that very same lady in your photo make bread! I got to pound it and put it in the hot oven. So funny to see her on your post!!!

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