Oh, Jeddah

This week, we are in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. We had a few false starts! We arrived with no place to stay thanks to an AWOL Airbnb host, and spent our first night in a hotel room that smelled like…ick. The next day, we showed up for a design workshop that turned out to be 1200 miles away in Dubai. It’s been smoggy, hot, and humid.

Jeddah isn’t what most would consider a tourist destination, and yet there has been a lot here for us, including some things that we maybe didn’t expect.

Carol, Susan and Kim with Kholoud on our walking tour of Jeddah’s Old Town, AlBalad.

We’ve enjoyed several museums, a walk along the Red Sea coast, and some good food, but what stands out is the kindness and openness of people here. Everywhere we go, people have made a point to be friendly and make us feel welcome. We’ve had many fascinating conversations with locals, including several very enterprising women. Contrary to our expectations, women have become a big part of the evolving tourist industry. And they are eager to talk about their beliefs and their culture.

We met a man who has spent the past twenty years turning his employer’s house into a small museum of quirky art.

And then yesterday, without any conversations, we understood a little more. We took a high speed train to Madinah, 250 miles north of Jeddah, to spend a day at Islam’s second most important holy place (after the Ka’ba in Mecca). Al Masjid en Nabawi is a giant mosque and the place where Muhammad is entombed. As non-Muslims, we weren’t permitted inside the mosque or even inside the grounds. But we stood outside the gates to watch tens of thousands of pilgrims go inside to pray, people from all over the world who came to give themselves up to their faith in something bigger. And then we felt like a part of something bigger.

A small part of Islam’s second most important Mosque, Al Masjid en Nabawi, in the holy city of Madinah.

During our visit to Saudi Arabia, we’ve learned a little about Islam, the region’s history, and local traditions. More importantly, I think I speak for all three of us by saying we have felt a kinship with people who seem a little different from us in some ways but who are so much like us in the ways that are most important. And ultimately this is what travel does — it teaches us that peace is possible.

On the train to Madinah

15 comments

  1. as usual a quick dip into another culture as a ghost traveler with you [ and none of the problems] I love the ride. Hope

  2. i don’t know which I enjoyed more- your wonderful pictures or insightful and inspiring narrative!

    I declare your narrative the winner!

    Keep it goin’ Kimmie!

  3. Thanks Kim. You’ve written such a hopeful post. Great to know how warm and welcoming the women have been. How about the men? You and Carol are such intrepid travelers!

    1. The men we have encountered have also been kind and friendly in every encounter. We’ve had a couple of young Uber drivers who were particularly eager to chat about their culture and curious about us. Many men have made a point to say “salam alaikim” (“peace be with you”) or “you are welcome” when we pass them on the street. The Saudi government has a huge and very public plan to encourage visitors — and I think this has shifted the culture toward more openness with strangers, including women.

  4. Another great post. So interesting to get your perspective on a place so many of us have been hesitant to explore. And yet, this is exactly the kind of experience that opens minds and hearts.

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