A few years ago, I asked a Greek acquaintance how things were going in Greece in light of its struggling the economy. She said, “We’re fine. We have our islands. They are like family.” I think I understand this. Last week, my San Miguel BFF, Suzen, and I took the ferry to the Greek islands of Santorini and Crete. They were magic and, in different ways, they felt like family.
Santorini is probably one of the most beautiful places on earth — like the aunt with perfect bone structure and an unerring sense of style. It’s one of the Cyclades Islands in the Aegean Sea, a six hour ferry ride from Athens. It’s usually packed with tourists. but it was quieter than usual because we visited off season, and a series of small earthquakes motivated many to cancel their visits. I’m so glad we went! Santorini is everything you’ve heard it is — gorgeous, unspoiled, and friendly. Part of its drama is that most of it is the top of an inactive volcano overlooking a caldera that is now part of the sea.
On our first day, we hiked 7 miles from the main town of Thera to Oia. It was hard not to stop and take a photo every 100 feet. The trail went through villages and along wild hillsides with views of the sea in every direction. We took a wrong turn at some point and accidentally ended up on the road. Suzen stuck out her thumb and we got a ride the last mile with a Greek hotel owner. Greek men are very handsome and charming…
Oia is spectacular, most of it perched high above the Aegean and the rest of it blanketing the cliffs down to the sea. Oia is high end everything, and we felt like princesses at lunch there, even with our wind-mangled hair and dusty hiking shoes.
Back in Thera, we went for a very slow ride on horses from their paddock to a photo opportunity overlooking the sea. I was so happy to smell horses again and enjoyed a small thrill when my mare spooked at an imaginary something.
From Santorini, we took the 2 hour ferry ride south to Crete. Crete is more like your favorite uncle who is always relaxed and wants you to feel relaxed too. The cities along the northern coast — Heraklion and Chania — have Venetian architecture, pedestrian malls, narrow cobblestone streets, and lots of outdoor cafes. When we visited, the coastal mountains were covered with snow but the skies were clear.
Crete is partly famous for a 13-mile hike down the Samaria Gorge. We’d planned to do this hike, but the gorge doesn’t open until early May. No matter — we enjoyed great food, street music, a spectacular waterfront, friendly locals, and even a Seder dinner at a historic Synagogue.
I left for California and Suzen stayed on Crete for a few more days. She’s a sailor from way back and she got to crew on a 45 foot schooner.
Crete and Santorini are different, but so Greek in all the best ways. And Greece has a special place in my heart. In 2015, it changed my life when I went there to work with refugees, and it’s still a part of me.
Camino Milagro 
Santorini seems like a magical place.
It really is — and less glitzy than I expected.
Your brilliant photos make everything look heavenly Kim! Your trip there sounds marvelous and memorable.
During the height of the COVID pandemic I operated a remote ham radio station out of Chania on Crete- K3VIC- to be able to chat with my friends in Western Europe at more frequent times of the day, and reach more deeply into eastern Europe, Russia and Africa.
I made friends with a guy named Angie wha was even older than me (i.e. ancient). He had lived on Crete his entire life, including the dark days of World War II when it was brutally occupied by the Nazis. He described living with his family up the mountains deep in caves during that period of time. He loved to talk about the beauty of his island and we talked about getting together if I ever visited.
Sad to say I recently heard that he had passed away last year. Sigh….
I am really glad you had a chance to visit this very very special place on Spaceship Earth. I’d love to see additional photos someday.
Wow, what a story, living in caves. Yes, Greece is still proud of its prime minister saying no to Mussolini — so much so that one of its most important holidays is called “Oxi” (“no” in Greek)
Had I known you were there, I would’ve waved from Bodrum, Turkey. Just across the Aegean. Off-season in these places is really special.
It’s true! I’m never going during tourist season again. What is worse — having to wear a heavier jacket or having to deal with wall to wall people everywhere you go? See you back at the ranch!
Great description of your Aunt (Santorini) and Uncle (Crete), Kim!!! Thanks for sharing these insights. Do not think that I am a copy cat, but we are planning an escape to Greece in August (!) to one of the lesser-visited isles, e.g., Lesvos or Skopelos. Any tips?
Well of course, Lesvos is in my heart forever since I lived there with the refugees for several months. It is gorgeous, agricultural and unassuming, real Greece with donkeys hauling stuff on the roads, and you eat whatever’s on the stove tonight at the tavernas, and olive trees and the loveliest people. If you go send me a note and I’ll refer you to some places to stay and see
Two of my favorite Islanda in Greece! They are so different yet similar in ways! Nice post and beautiful photos!
Thank you!
Santorini looks magical. No tremors when you were there?? Maggie
No tremors but the Old Port is shut down because of some damage. It’s probably always going to be an unstable corner of the world.