Bhaktapur was one of the three Nepalese kingdoms that united to become the Nepali nation in 1768. It’s a few miles southeast of Kathmandu, small and peaceful. In the historic old city, street dogs ask for a hug and the kids hang out on the ancient temples doing homework. In the several plazas, holy places and palaces show off a variety of architectural styles, mostly Newari, Nepali and Indian. Most have been rebuilt after a devastating earthquake toppled many of them in 2015.
Visitors love this town, but Bhaktapur hasn’t gone too far out of its way to style itself as a tourist destination. The hotels and restaurants are basic, and the souvenir shops are next to kiosks that sell plastic housewares and locally-grown produce.
My last day in Bhaktapur was Shivaratri, a Hindu holiday celebrating the wedding of two powerful gods, Shiva and Parvati. The day is considered a time when cosmic energy aligns with Shiva’s essence — destruction and creation. It’s a day of praying and meditating. As I passed the small outdoor temples around town, Hindus made offerings of marigolds, candles and incense.
In the evening, frightening things danced in the square to traditional Nepali music.
Walking from temple to temple, I found a few gorgeous murals hidden away in a little alley. The old city in Bhaktapur is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and murals aren’t permitted, so these were like little secrets.
One of the murals presented a political perspective, although Bhaktapur didn’t feel political. But maybe it is… (In Kathmandu, however, right wing demonstrators have demanded a return to the monarchy and a Hindu state)
And I found a hidden doorway, not UNESCO-authorized and not very Bhaktapur, but somehow still in the spirit of Shivaratri.
Camino Milagro 
Thanks for the great insights into a hidden culture! I remember vividly the detailed figures carved into the wooden friezes on buildings in Bhaktapur… such an amazing place, even though my last visit was 20 years ago…
It probably hasn’t changed much since you were there except for the repairs!
So much to learn… The mural with the guy cutting his hair is masterful! My Buddhist brother visited Nepal but, sadly, didn’t share any of these… Thank you, Kim!
C
Yes, the mural is such a contrast to the antiquities.
I love that about Bhaktapur, that it has retained its authentic looks while being a tourist site. We visited a couple of years before and then again after the earthquake. From your pictures, it looks like most of the scaffolding is down and the restoration is complete, finally. Maggie
Mostly — the big Shiva temple is still a work in progress but the locals still crawl around the scaffolding to get inside!
So much history and culture. A true gem of Nepal! Thanks for sharing!
It’s lovely and when I mentioned it to Nepalis, they replied “You will like it– it’s clean!”
Namaste Kim!
I loved the photos in this post and your narrative which once again catalyzed me into digging a bit deeper as I plunged into one rabbit hole after another. You always inspire my curiosity and for that I am deeply appreciative.
I am so glad you were able to meet up with granddaughter Ella and her hubby Sascha while in Nepal. I want to hear more details of that get-together so let’s chat soon. To me your meeting them is just short of a minor miracle and it somehow strengthens our rather dispersed and deeply intertwined familial bonds. 🙂
Peace be with you as you continue your amazing journey!