Yogyakarta feels loved. It’s on the island of Java, about 400 miles east of Jakarta and full of spirited art, great food, music, and Javanese traditions. People are friendly and there is a strong sense of community. The roads and alleys are gritty, but full of lively murals. Walking through them, you hear birds singing, chickens squawking, and the call to prayer. And motor cycles.

Very importantly, Yogya is the home of the Cosmological Axis! That’s a reference to the UNESCO World Heritage Site called the Kraton, a palace and community space in the center of the city that was built by a Sultan in the 18th century. The Kraton’s lay-out and architecture are intended to express the harmonious exchange of spiritual beliefs, the connection between humans and their Creator, and the natural elements. Its messages seem to have seeped into the soul of the city. (Fun fact: Yogyakarta region is still lead by a sultan, an inherited position that has always been filled by a man. The current sultan has five daughters and no sons, so the next sultan here will be a woman.)

The Kraton also celebrates the peaceful co-existence of the region’s several major religions — Muslim, Hindu, Buddhist, and Christian. Here, there are variations of these faiths that are “syncretic,” that is, blended. For about 1500 years, the people of Java have practiced both Buddhism and Hinduism, which are generally philosophically compatible. When the Arabs came to Java in the 9th century, most of the population adopted Islam but kept many of their Hindu and Buddhist traditions. (Catholicism in parts of Mexico is similarly syncretic because it adopted the traditions of the indigenous Mexican communities)

This part of Indonesia is also famously the home of one of the world’s Contemporary Seven Wonders, Borobudur, which is the largest Buddhist temple in the world. The 100 foot tall mandala-shaped structure was built in the 8th century. Its ten tiers present literally layers of meaning and knowledge about the human path to enlightenment. On the top three tiers are 72 stupas, the largest representing the highest level of Nirvana. For Buddhists, Borobudur is the ultimate pilgrimage place. For me, it was an inspiring climb to the top, knowing millions from all faiths have done the same.

Less dramatic but also important is the little village of Tembi south of town. It’s unassuming, quiet, and sitting on the periphery of a large expanse of farmland. The crafts workshops were closed when I visited, but I talked (sort of, since I don’t speak Bahasa) to a rice farmer working in his field, and watched children shooing away the chickens from the harvested grain that was drying along the road.

As I walked around the village, an imam was reading verses of the Koran over a loud speaker at a small mosque. His poetic chanting drifted across the fields and through the village. It seemed to be an invitation to slow down.

When I walked back to the main road outside of Tembi, I wasn’t sure how I was going to get back to town, but I found a tuk-tuk driver who knew my hotel and I had a super fun ride home.

Yogyakarta is one of those really special places. Thinking about coming back….